Appearances

'Your look is your personality; allow us to serve you' encouraged the hand-painted sign advertising dry-cleaning services in Dar es Salaam. I suspected my one and only suit would be in good hands here but ditched this garment when I arrived in Dar. It is hot, humid and reminds me of February in Durban; my next visit to Dar will be in February...

I wondered how this strapline could apply to a urban management/town planning department of a city. How exactly do the appearances of cities match their personalities and how can we best serve them? Do cities have personalities?

Dar's turquoise ocean and palm trees convey a laid-back atmosphere; a city at ease with itself. Neglected colonial buildings are juxtaposed by clusters of construction that defy the current global economic crisis. These contrasts are discernable in the two informal settlements I visited. Manzese and Hana Nassif are small compared to Kibera in Nairobi. These are neighbourhoods where quirky (often unfinished) permanent structures interrupt rows of shacks; collector roads are flanked with economic enterprises that range from home-based sewing services to panel beaters and furniture vendors...and of course bars. The diversity of economic activity amazed me. Here people are serving themselves, despite the neglected infrastructure.

Global Barrio

As the plane circled Maputo, the Catedral da Nossa Senhora da Conceição (RC Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception) stark white exterior visible from the sky, I contained my annoyance with the 1 hour delay. The delay was due to the arrival of the President Armando Emílio Guebuza in Beira. (I noticed his plane was bigger than ours.) A couple of days later whilst making my way from Maputo to Dar es Salaam, I encountered him again in Pemba, our second stop on this 'matatu' of air travel experiences. Red Frelimo flags invigorated what appeared to be rather small but enthusiastic shows of support at these two locations. Apparently the true challenge for Frelimo in this week's election is not winning (not an issue since the opposition is split) but public confidence reflected in voter turnout.

Populist figures and images are ubiquitous reminders of the country's turbulent past. Modernist and sometimes brutalist buildings with Soviet-era lettering and imagery are located on roads with names that includes every revolutionary active in the 20thC: Lenin, Machel, Nyerere, Mao... Early colonial buildings fade into the background with the exception of the Cathedral and Eiffel's iron building and station. In front of the station I bumped into an old friend from Namibia - our serendipitous encounter is a welcome reminder of the resilience of joint interests and passions (architecture, cities, art) . Among the T-shirts sporting images of Bob Marley and Che Guevara, I engaged in conversation with a eloquent woman selling stylish handbags (of course I bought one!); she tells me of her journey to Mozambique from her native Uganda, through Zimbabwe... It is clear to me that these were not journeys of choice. Movement across borders are not necessarily the result of shared interests but the divisive forces of war and discord. Yet it speaks of a innate ability to adapt and be mobile which I find strangely intriguing.

Floating

“Maputo is ‘n stad; Beira is ‘n gat” (Maputo is a city, Beira is a hole), said the khaki clad tour operator. I was on the airport bus, and had just assured my mother (in Afrikaans) that her youngest would travel safely. Language changes sensibilities; it can be barrier or bridge. This person whom I know not from Adam thought it appropriate to share such a biased opinion with me, a total stranger. I immediately felt the need to defend Beira, even though I had never been there and count Maputo as one of my favourite places. Having grown up in Durban, I have always been vaguely defensive about those ‘second’ or ‘third’ cities, the ones that do are not always in the limelight, do not have the glamour or are just not the size that justifies to be noticed. Perhaps it is just language.

Beira is situated below sea level, a city surrounded by water; swamps inland, the ocean and rivers to the east, south and north. One of our themes for the AAPS project, Climate Change and Cities has special significance here, my colleagues at Catholic University of Mozambique agreed. It would be easy to dismiss the city in a derisive comparison to other east coast centres; it is small, it lacks a core, road maintenance is lacking, waste management is limited and it appears to pay little attention to its beautiful coastline. However, in between the glossy advertisements for mobile phones (Vodacom is heading north…) and littered squares are little linear gems: tree-lined roads with faded Art Deco buildings paying allegiance to its past. A moment of colonial guilt passes as I enjoy the elegant facades and mourn the neglect and lack of maintenance of many of these structures. I then smiled when I realised I was in Eduardo Mondlane Avenue…a reminder of where I was.

How does one reconcile the architectural splendours of a colonial past with more urgent current imperatives? I pondered this as I swam laps in the 50m Municipal pool, yet another relic from the city’s past. Pausing to breathe every three strokes I noticed a number of young children warming up for their swimming lesson by jogging around the pool. My turns at the pool edge were punctuated by delightful giggles and the occasional ‘ola!’ (I was the only swimmer in the pool). Perhaps my colonial angst was unfounded; beauty in spaces and architecture is universal, much like the water that surrounds Beira and connected me experientially to those energetic little swimmers.

Commitment Issues

Standing in the line waiting to board the Johannesburg-Ndola flight on SA Airlink I closed my eyes listening to the accents around me and figured I could be boarding a Quantas flight given the predominance of Australian slang. Subtle eavesdropping reveals that many of these antipodeans are on their way to the DRC, site of many international mining interests; others were on their way to Kitwe, the erstwhile core of the Zambian Copper belt and home to the Copper Belt University’s School of the Built Environment and the Department of Urban and Regional Planning, my hosts.

Kitwe is a city of about 0.5 million people. It is attractive with many flamboyant trees and a lush landscape. In the distance one sees the mine shafts, the ‘hard hats’ that gain access to the depths below. This is the view from afar. My guest house is located in a comfortable suburb with the Bar playing host to a range of Nationalities: English, Australian, Chinese and South African. My fake wedding ring gives me some protection from continuous harassment since a single woman visiting on business is clearly a very foreign feature. The copper price has been steadily increasing so business is improving in this part of the world but I cannot help but wonder: where’s the money? It is certainly not present in the city infrastructure. Closer inspection reveals streets in dire need of repair and a city in much demand for a waste management strategy. A tour of informal settlements on the outskirts reveals minimal servicing and neglect. A curious feature is the predominance of home-based spaza shops, constructed as little kiosks embedded in fencing or as extensions of people’s homes; ‘welcome shoppers’ boasts one.

Kiosks range from hair dressing services, complete with painted signage, the ubiquitous phone shops offering ‘top-up’ and spaza shops selling basic groceries with some selling fresh produce. The market down the road is one of the biggest I have seen (I have yet to travel to West Africa…) with hardware, clothing and other goods and services arranged in self-appointed districts. I am told by my Zambian colleague that the site is to be redeveloped into a shopping centre, seen by the local authority as a healthy dose of foreign investment. I would hate to calculate the many livelihoods that would be affected by this intervention. It strikes me that the promise of FDI in this instance, and perhaps in many other examples in this mining region, is not dissimilar to my fake wedding ring: an outwards sign of commitment, but inherently false and intentionally deceptive.

Interesting tides

There is much to enjoy in Mombassa: the coast is beautiful, the food is excellent and the architecture is fascinating (especially if you fancy ornate, wooden balconies…who doesn’t?!). It is a 24-hour city: small cafes are open day and night (but closed for prayer of course) selling chapattis and Kenyan pizza (a square and compact omelette sandwich with mince) and balmy nights invite whole families outside as they sit in colourful robes discussing the matters of the day watching children play in the narrow streets. The old town of Mombassa is charming but in need of intervention. The few buildings that have official heritage status are well preserved but there are not many of them. The lack of services is discernable and I was pleased that I did not walk through some of the narrow alleys on my own. It is a dense urban environment, sometimes claustrophobic, knowing that one can escape to the seafront on the edges of the island is somehow reassuring.

If you catch the tide at the right time you can swim in the beautiful warm ocean.

While sitting next to the old harbour drinking flagrant black coffee infused with ginger and cardamom, my local friend (and self-appointed tour guide extraordinaire) informed me that this was a ritual to many: sitting on the sea front, staring at the ocean, talking about politics and chewing mari, a local plant, also known as Kenyan Lettuce, that ‘helps you see things clearly’. His description of this experience sounded vaguely hallucinogenic, my suspicions were confirmed by the look of serenity and peaceful oblivion on the lined face of the elderly gentleman sitting behind me. He was chewing with dignity, my friend said, sitting upright, shoes off, impeccable white muslim dress, perfectly perched; unlike the others around us, he continued, chewing open-mouthed, spitting in an undignified way and clearly too young to handle the stuff. I was too distracted by the activity in the water to pay much attention: crossing the bay to the South were two swimmers doing a beautiful butterfly stroke across the bay. I was impressed with the deft confidence with which one crossed back, jumped out of the water and bounded up the steps behind us. Another daily ritual for some, I am told, and one only for men. Being a swimmer myself I found this aspect of the custom strangely ancient and annoying; what the ocean is off limits to women?!

Perhaps the tide has to change in more ways than one for some.

The postmodern and the subaltern

On the bus traveling back from Kibera on Tuesday I giggled at the two notices: 'No Hawking', and 'No Preaching' plastered in front of the TV that plays UNICEF advertorials. Preaching is something I encountered on my first day in Nairobi; my hotel hosts a charismatic church on Sunday mornings, right next to the restaurant. Downstairs, off the lobby is a Casino that is always open. I wonder if the two are associated? Perhaps just in my subversive mind...

Across from the hotel is 'Simmers' a bar that has been keeping me up most nights. This morning when I woke at 3.30 it was discharging the last of its customers. So it was with a slight hint of resentment that I went to Simmers last night... I needed a beer though! A friend from KU had been showing me 'the other Nairobi' - an area beyond the great divide posed by Moi Avenue that is considerably less ordered than the city I have become accustomed to this week. This could be a city in Asia. Colonial office buildings have been subdivided into small units arranged into spontaneous districts of small shops selling electronic goods, clothes, hardware etc. A neglect of town planning controls has allowed for the creation of a dense, noisy, busy and strangely exhilirating series of spaces. In a meeting with a colleague from U. Nairobi we talked about the element of surprise in African cities. Many surprises await one beyond Moi Avenue.

So back at Simmers we discussed these contrasts as the Congolese musicians started gyrating on the stage. The music was strangely hypnotic; I like it a lot. The musicians were particularly interesting. Six of them made intermittent appearances and their dancing and interactions on stage were mesmerising. There was something confrontational about their presence, due largely to their atire. One particular singer commanded attention wearing a long black coat (initially flung over one shoulder) sporting white scale-like inscriptions, tight black pants with a bold Dolce and Gabbana belt buckle and a black hat, perched to the side. My friend tells me his intention is to appear as an undertaker symbolic of the plight of the DRC. This man was not a victim however. He was delivering commentary; I still have not really come to grips with what that was....

Youthful Reflections

Following a series of meetings with my AAPS colleagues at Kenyatta University on Day 1, I spent my second day in the company of some very special people…accumulating an interesting array of experiences. A walk through Uhuru Park took me to a meeting at the Serena Hotel. The walk through Uhuru Park was uneventful, despite the Lonely Planet’s assertions to be careful; the entrance to the elegant Serena was not! Kofi Annan is in town and he is staying, no doubt with many other VIPs, at the Serena… I strolled in backpack on back with not so much as a second look in my direction. I am not sure if this says more about my sombre suit or the security at the Serena…

I know about Annan’s visit because I read the Kenyan newspapers; they are fantastic! What may be lacking in investigative journalism is more than compensated by editorial opinion and good quality reporting. My favourite thus far is Mutayi Ngunyi’s recommendation in the Sunday Nation: “Mr President, what you need is ‘reverse mentoring’ from my generation” (fortunately I JUST make it into Mr Ngunyi’s generation of 30 and 40 year olds) Tolstoy and Naomi Klein inform this ‘Last Word on Sunday’ that argues that attention to contemporary views and the energy of the X and Y generations will inform a more connected Presidency… “Your generation owns this country, my generation runs it.”

I was reminded of these words when I visited Kibera with a student from KU later in the day. The bus ride took only 15 minutes; I expected the South African township experience where a one-way trip can take you up to 2 hours in traffic. Kibera is known to be the biggest informal settlement in Africa, perhaps rivalled by Soweto. Interestingly there is a Soweto IN Kibera, site of recent removals to controversial high density accommodation constructed recently (picture). The densities are staggering! Popping out of the finely woven fabric of tin and corrugated iron are small circular structures with cheerful blue roofs. These are bio-centres, ablution blocks and community spaces, constructed by the Umande Trust, an NGO that hosted me for the afternoon. These small buildings make a big impact. They are multi-functional. In addition to providing ablution facilities with hot water facilitated through bio-fuels, community groups raise funding by cooking meals using generated gas; the roof hosts community group meetings. Many of these are youth groups. One of these is in the process of being constructed another one of these structures. I chatted to one young man whilst he was busy shovelling soil in the hot sun. As far as he was concerned he was learning on the job and making a difference while doing it. On our way back to downtown Nairobi, my young friend from KY was careful to point out that these buildings are maintained and sustained because of the young people’s involvement and support. As I watched the UNICEF advertorial on the bus’s TV screen, I wondered:

Are you listening Mr President?

You are welcome

Sitting in the cab on the way from Jomo Kenyatta airport I listened to two radio personalities expressing their frustration with Facebook culture and that fine art involving Twitter (I refuse to use the word tweet before my second cup of coffee). The view was derisive; who on earth is interested in what you do at a moment-to-moment basis?! This opinion is shared by many (and some may even extend that opinion to bloggers....). So my curiousity about technology in East Africa's business hub was provoked... our project relies on a certain measure of connectivity and my research focuses on ICT and cities. I take technophobia very personally!

So, I was curious about the relevance of digital technologies as the taxi driver offered to buy me fresh roasted peanuts from the kids on the side of the road while we stalled in the Saturday night traffic jam ('you are welcome'). The nuts are wrapped in paper cones: a basic technology that is cheap and effective enough to provide livelihoods on that global shopping strip: the road verge. Informality is a theme that resonates in a number of ways here. Currently the Nairobi City Council is intent on preserving the cleanliness of the city centre by enforcing by-laws that prohibit spitting, blowing your nose without a hankie and 'behaving like touts and street traders' according to one letter to the editor of the Daily Nation. In the same paper UNHabitat Day is celebrated under the timely theme: 'Planning our Urban Future' where one of the challenges, noted by the agency, in cities in the Global South is dealing with increasing informality... One of the interesting features of unregulated development in Kenya rests in the upper income areas on the edges of Nairobi where whole neighbourhoods are developed outside city regulations. So who exactly is welcome here?

Whilst prowling Nairobi streets, taking care to blow my frequently congested nose in a hankie, I stumble across M-Pesa....everywhere...on billboards, on shop fronts and embedded in cute little kiosks scattered across the city. My waiter (who insists on loading my Kenyan sim card and airtime and ensuring that I now have a Kenyan cell number; 'you are welcome') tells me this is a way of managing your money on a cell phone, bypassing banks. Users are able to buy credits at retailers and then use this credit to transfer funds, buy airtime, shop and buy beer (said waiter's emphasis). Digital technology is alive and well in Nairobi but apparently on Kenyan terms. Now that is my kind of informality!